No Worries. Be Happy
Lost in Guna Yala


We didn't really have a rough last day at sea. We just hit the wall. And of course we had to hand steer for a while. We missed the weather report on Monday morning, but did manage to hear the San Blas Cruisers' net and did talk with Keith on Kookaburra, telling him we'd arrive around 2:00. They hauled their anchor and came out to meet us, our radio rendezvous and in-real-life sighting occurred at 2:02 or 1402. Jaime asked what took us so long, and said, "We've been waiting here an hour!" I called her the B-word and knew we were back with friends. Friends who know how to hit our sweet spots. They've been waiting for us for a couple of weeks or more. We are late to the party.

These are true friends, ready and waiting to greet us and lead us into Proviner, the small harbor with a difficult entry. S/V Kookaburra was our own private pilot boat. Once we anchored, the crew from our private pilot boat arrived on board with cheese, crackers, and a bit of the bubbly. How cool is that? We have a lot to catch up on. While we were in the Azores and Canaries, they spent 27 days in Peru, including a trip to Machu Pichu. We'll travel with them among the Guna Yala islands this week, learning about some of their favorite anchorages, then they are off to visit friends and family in the states (mostly Massachusetts), leaving us to meet new friends, explore on our own and do a LOT of boat work.

On Monday, we are anchored in a space surrounded by reefs. After being at sea in 2000+ feet of water with no land or other boats in sight, this is a whole different world. Guna Indians stopped by to offer fish and molas. "Thank you, not today," is our response. I'm looking forward to having them stop by with fresh fruits and veggies and have been assured that will happen shortly.

This is out of the hurricane zone, but still isn't the high season for Guna Yala cruising. Jaime said there are only 30 boats here in the whole chain---this could be a challenge for two extroverts, but we do have long work lists, so that's a help. To further earn their sainthood, Kookaburra welcomed us aboard for a delicious meal of pasta and sauce -- comfort food -- and wine. We supplied the chocolate. This morning, we checked into the country, toured a couple of these islands, and visit the only grocery store in the chain. (They had chips and soda; nothing else. The other store had sewing notions, cell phones and the same groceries.)Then we began the "Kook's Tour" of Guna Yala. I've been told that paddle boarding and snorkeling are on the list. Oh darn. We've also picked out the spot when we expect to spend most of the time they are gone. Great snorkeling and a very close cell tower which will allow us to email and get on-line, and (we hope) Skype.

Already we know this will be an experience like no other. Boaters have stayed in the area for 2 and 3 years because they enjoy the islands and never run out of new anchorages and new places to explore. Through our neighbors on the mooring in St. Thomas, we know of one couple who sails back and forth between St. Thomas and here every year. I'm anxious to meet them and to learn about their route, as I assume they don't the same passage we just experienced twice a year. No one would make that passage twice a year. Few would do it once. We shouldn't have, but there you go and here we are.


After checking into the country and the autonomous region of Guna Yala, we followed Kookaburra to the Lemon Cays, where we purchased one lovely live sea crab. Crab risoto for dinner tonight.

We have arrived.

Tonight's anchorage is 9 33.708 North and 078 51.783 West. We will leave here tomorrow for the next stop on our whirlwind tour. If it's Tuesday, this must be the Lemon Cays.


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